Author Topic: Instructable for another IR Pen (How to.... and where to get the items from!)  (Read 7675 times)

Offline lonerngraus

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I have noticed some great ideas here, and some very good ideas on making your own IR Pen.
Most people I have seen here do not live in Australia, and hence you can never be sure where to go to get the components you need.

I thought it would be an idea to show you all what I built and the basics of how I did it.

This is the end result:



The components you'll need are:

1. 1 x Pack of "Misty Markers" available from KMart For around $3.00  (6 Pack is what I purchased - They come from www.hunterleisure.com.au )



2. 1 x Infrared Light Emitting Diode from Dick Smiths $1 (Cat No. Z3235) ->> View Here

3. 1 Pack of wire - will last you ages.....  $4 (Cat No. W4010)  ->> View Here

4. 1 x Various Heat Shrink tubing from Disk Smiths - will last a fair while (Cat No. W4060 ) $8.99 --> View Here

5. AAA NiMH Rechargeable battery x 2 - $12.99 Important to use rechargeable as the voltage is 1.2V.  View Here

6. "AA" Battery holder   - S6155 (Used for battery terminals) View Here

7. SPDT Mini Micro Switch - P7802 View Here

8. Araldite singles - Available at Bunnings Hardware. 3 small packs x 1mL




You will also need a soldering iron and some solder. I also used some helping hands ( View Here ) and a Hobby Rotary Tool ( View Here )


To Make the pen:

1. Start by cutting the hole for the switch (When I build the next one I'll add some images). I used the rotary tool for this. Made the job very simple.



2. Using the rotary tool, make a hole in the the Coloured End of the pen, to fit the LED into (I mean the front of the pen. I burred a hole in the knob sticking out of the front of these pens. Don't take the knob off! Just use the arrow shaped burring tool to make the hole the right size).

3. Solder the Anode (+) wire (that's the longer one - Use the paperwork that comes with the LED if you need any more clarification) and make sure you remember to add a length of heatshrink tubing to fit over this wire and then over the anode after soldering.

4. Solder the Cathode (-) wire (that's the shorter one). (By the way, I had no need to cut either than anode or cathode. Just solder straight onto it). Then add heatshrink tubing over both the Anode and Cathode and using a flame, shrink the tubing.

5. Cut a very small length of tubing to cover the platic around the LED at the end.... you cant really see it clearly in the photo, but I have added this tubing over the end of the platic tube. Make sure you don't cover the LED. You need this part to be CLEARLY visible.



6. Push the LED into the casing and pull the wiring through so it is sticking out of the hole you cut for the Micro Switch.

7. Using a multimeter and the continuity switch on it, locate the two terminals that join when the switch is pressed. If you bought the switch from Dick Smiths, it will be the terminals marked C  (Common) and NO (Normally Open). The NC (Normally Closed) terminal will NOT be used.



8. Solder a wire from the Anode (+) to the Common Terminal on the switch. Solder a wire onto the Normally Open wire.

9. Break open the "AA" Battery holder and remove the terminals from one end. Cut it in half. The Negative wire (Coming from the Cathode) will be soldered to the end with the spring on it. The Positive wire (Coming from the switch now) will be soldered to the other half.

10. Cut the ends of the terminals to fit into the clear part of the casing. You will want it to be a very tight fit, so it sits there by itself when pushed down.



11. Using the areldite, add some glue to the heatshrink tubing around the LED and then around the top of the switch so it does not fall in. 

12. Once it has dried, Add some heatshrink tubing over the switch cutting a small section out so it does not effect the button on the switch. Using a flame, shrik this tubing.

Done!

It should be quite simple to replace the battery, and being that it's rechargeable, will make is life span greater. I'd like to modify the battery holder a bit, but as yet, I have been unable to locate a thin AAA batter holder. Do you know of any ??

I used the USB Bluetooth Dongle from Dick Smiths as well. It comes with Bluesolei Software and is pretty much ready to go. I did however purchase the upgrade on their internet site, as the new version worked much better under Windows Vista.


« Last Edit: May 04, 2008, 12:35:18 AM by lonerngraus »



Offline UndCon

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Well done, a good instructable!

That is the same BT-dongle i have but mine is labelled Billionton.




Offline lonerngraus

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Like you (I am sure) I have found this type of switch to be the best as it doesn't cause any strain while using it for a long period of time.



Offline UndCon

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God tho hear that I'm not alone :)

I really like using this pen - and now that I'm finishing off another one for the instructable I can play around alot better with multitouch.




Offline benpaddlejones

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Lonerngraus
After blowing my second IR-Led I actually read yours and others instructions and found that 2x 1.2v batteries are not good for these parts (how I love experiential learning)  >:(

I have discovered you can buy "Vishay TSAL6400s" IR-Led's from Altronics www.altronics.com.au in Australia  :D

This is the same part as JCL recommends and is far stronger (100mA) than the www.dse.com.au (20mA) part

I'm going to by a few tomorrow and I think I will also invest 15c for a resistor ;)

benpaddlejones


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Offline UndCon

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*me trying to send resistor over SMS*

LOL - not quite there yet...good luck -i hope your findings work out



Offline benpaddlejones

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Lonerngraus
I have discovered you can buy "Vishay TSAL6400s" IR-Led's from Altronics www.altronics.com.au in Australia  :D

NO YOU CAN'T  >:( >:( >:(

The guy on the phone said they were Vishay, but after hooking up I find only 20deg viewing angle so it only works when I point it direct into wiimote!

However, http://au.farnell.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp have the actual Vishay part number as their part number, so hopefully this is the one! (didn't charge me postage either).

benpaddlejones



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